Three Days in Phnom Penh

Much like Cambodia in general, Phnom Penh has a bad reputation with some travelers. I've personally heard the word hate thrown at this city more than any other I've been to. However, much like Cambodia, the nation's capital is buzzing with beautiful chaos, delightfully sarcastic and regularly smiling locals, and some well used remnants from French colonialism. Even with a continued revitalization in the city, the fact remains that Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (Killing Fields) are two of the main reasons people make their way to Phnom Penh. And with good reason. While there's plenty to look over at each memorial, these are more locations that need to be felt and experienced. I've scarcely been more affected by a place than Choeung Ek and often had to take time to collect myself before moving along with the audio tour. Especially as an American who was previously unaware of the extent of my nation's involvement in creating and later supporting the Khmer Rouge, these monuments were a vital step towards a better understanding of history, the atrocities humanity is capable of, and the Cambodian people.

But these two places do not a city make. It seems to me an inability to separate the raw emotions evoked in these two locations from the current incarnation of Phnom Penh is why so many travelers have an aversion to the city. For some, when thinking of Phnom Penh they only call up the distressing memories of visiting the Killing Fields or Tuol Sleng. But rest assured, there is an abundance of light to mix in with the darkness and it's more than possible to have a great time in Phnom Penh while learning of its troubling past. If nothing else, it's a city that will never leave you hungry with cheap eats galore and some of the most affordable fine dining in Asia. There's also a myriad of street art to take in, live music, and theater to show how alive this city of over two million truly is.

(header photo by Mallory Dowd)

STAY

• Rachana Hostel: Well located boutique hostel with spacious clean rooms and a lovely rooftop bar. Right on a main street and can get a bit noisy at night, but a solid place to stay for the price.

SEE

• Preah Sisowath Quay: Riverside promenade which runs along the west bank of the Tonle Sap River.
• Wat Ounalom: This wat is the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. It was founded in 1443 and comprises 44 structures. 
• On the 2nd floor of the main building, to the left of the dais, is a statue of Huot Tat, fourth patriarch of Cambodian Buddhism, who was killed by Pol Pot. The statue, made in 1971 when the patriarch was 80 years old, was thrown in the Mekong by the Khmer Rouge to show that Buddhism was no longer the driving force in Cambodia. It was retrieved after 1979.
• Royal Palace: Complex of buildings which serves as the royal residence of the king of Cambodia. Wear shorts to the knees and shirts to the elbows, busiest on Sundays when locals come.
• Independence Monument: Built in 1958 for Cambodia's independence from France in 1953.
• Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum: Museum chronicling the Cambodian genocide. The site is a former high school which was used as the notorious Security Prison 21 (S-21) by the Khmer Rouge from 1975 to its fall in 1979. It's estimated that nearly 20,000 prisoners died at Tuol Sleng as one of at least 150 execution centers in the country.
• Choeung Ek Genocidal Center / Killing Fields Of Pol Pot:  The most famous of a number of sites in Cambodia where collectively more than a million people were killed and buried by the Khmer Rouge.
• Cambodian Living Arts: a series of three rotating, hour-long performances that showcase various Khmer traditional arts, customs, and dances.

DO

• Russian Market: Large range of handicrafts and antiquities (many fake).
• Central Market: Constructed in 1937 in the shape of a dome with four arms branching out in hallways containing the usual market wares. Also home to some cheap and tasty food stalls and produce.
• Friends ‘n Stuff store: A social business run by Friends-International that enables parents across Southeast Asia to generate an income with handcrafts while their children go to school.
• Jazz Club Phnom Penh: Open 8pm-1am, one of the only jazz bars in the capital offering live music nearly every night. 
• Kingdom Brewery: One of Cambodia's largest breweries. $6 tours include two beers and there's no need to book ahead. Simply turn up and ask.

EAT & DRINK

• Romdeng: Part of the Friends’ extended family, this elegant restaurant specializes in Cambodian country fare, including a famous amok (fish baked with coconut and lemongrass in banana leaves). The place to sample deep-fried tarantulas or stir-fried tree ants with beef and holy basil.
• Sugar n Spice Cafe: Cafe on the top floor of the Daughters Visitor Centre features soups, smoothies, coffee drinks and fusion-y mains served by former sex workers being trained by Daughters to reintegrate into society.
• Friends: Offers former street children a head start in the restaurant industry. Specializes in tapas bites, smoothies and creative cocktails.
• FCC BAR (Foreign Correspondents’ Club): Housed in a former French colonial building, the "F" has a fine interior and also offers a rooftop bar with great views and frequent live music.
• Hagar: Proceeds from the all-you-can-eat buffets here go towards assisting destitute or abused women.

ITINERARY

Day 1: Embrace The Chaos

• Arrive at PNH: Before departing, stop by one of the small cell phone booths outside of the arrivals gate and pick up a Cambodian SIM Card. My wife and I each picked up a 3 week Cellcard SIM Card with 8gb of data for $7 each. The internet connection and downloads were better than any wifi we connected to and we never came close to using 8gb during our two weeks in Cambodia.
• Tuk Tuk Into Town: Most guesthouses and hotels in the city will either provide or happily arrange a tuk tuk to pick you up at the airport. If not, it's possible to pick one up easily enough outside of the ridiculously efficient and quaint airport. Make no mistake, this is absolutely the only way to travel into the city! Sure, taxis are available, but only a tuk tuk allows you to truly feel the city with its abundance of sights, sounds, and smells. Riding in a tuk tuk will also give a far better sense of how insane the traffic is in Cambodia and will give a first hand view into how it all somehow... just... works.
• When on your way into town, be sure to keep your bags either between your legs or hold onto them directly. Bag snatches still happen in Phnom Penh, but can be easily avoided if you're simply mindful of your belongings. 
• I arranged a pick up with Rachana for $7, which is maybe $1-$2 more than the cheapest fare, but was well worth it to avoid haggling. Also, I still feel kinda special when someone has my name on a sign at the airport. I'm a man of simple pleasures.
• Check in to Rachana: This hostel is directly on a main street, which makes it easy to get to from the airport, but also makes it a bit noisy at night. However, the noise is tolerable for such a short stay (especially with some ear plugs) and given how clean and spacious the rooms are. Also, the rooftop bar is a fine place to end multiple evenings and had perhaps the kindest bartender in history while we stayed there.
• Dinner at Romdeng: After dropping off the bags, make the 7 minute walk from Rachana to Romdeng for a truly uncommon and delectable meal. 
• Be bold and order the tarantulas as an appetizer, you won't find a better preparation in the whole of Cambodia. Surprisingly meaty, obviously crunchy, and delightfully salty, these creepy crawlers are a starter I would happily go back for again. Not at a random street stall mind you. Romdeng not cooks them to perfection and serves them with a black pepper and lime sauce that masks any bitterness.
• Also, the duck breast and red ant soup was outstanding. Seriously, eat bugs. They're salty, crunchy, and high in protein.
• Rooftop Drinks: Head back to Rachana's rooftop bar and either watch the sunset or simply enjoy the tangible buzz from the city below while sipping a cocktail or Angkor Beer as the street lights come on.

Day 2: History and Art

• Breakfast at Sugar and Spice: Another 7 minute walk from the hostel, Sugar and Spice is located on Preah Sisowath Quay (riverside promenade) with a great view of the Tonal Sap river. Sit on the balcony to see the comings and goings on the river, enjoy the breeze, people watch, and if you're like me get the Eggs Benedict that's impossible to find in your small Korean town.
• Wat Ounalom: The headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism is just 3 minutes away from Sugar and Spice and is a perfect spot to start a mini walking tour before taking a tuk tuk to Tuol Sleng.
• Be aware Wat Ounalom (and many other places in Phnom Penh) close for a few hours during the hottest part of the day from roughly 11am until 2pm. Plan your visit here accordingly.
• Royal Palace: Less than a 10 minute walk along the river from Wat Ounalom, this is another easy stop on your mini walking tour. Be sure to follow the dress code and have shorts to your knees (lightweight pants are even better and help protect against the sun as well).
• Independence Monument: If you'd like to get a sense of the neighborhood, take the 15 minute walk from the Royal Palace to the Independence Monument. Take in the sights and sounds of a city that truly changes from block to block and even building to building. Or pick up a tuk tuk and have it stop by the Independence Monument on your way to Tuol Sleng.
• Tuol Sleng: As mentioned, this is a place that needs to be experienced to begin grasping the brutal and horrific history of the Khmer Rouge. Pay the extra $3 for the audio tour and take your time. My wife and I both stepped outside on a few occasions to collect ourselves and continue the tour.
• Russian Market: If you'd like a bit of retail therapy after Tuol Sleng, this is a decent spot to go. Be forewarned, there isn't much in the way of food here, so your afternoon snacking may need to be done beforehand.
• Relax and Shower: Regardless of the time of year, it's hot in Cambodia and being outside for a walking tour, in and out of the buildings of Tuol Sleng, and into the thick of the Russian Market will undoubtedly work up a sweat. Tuk tuk back to the hostel and shower off the layer of sweat, grab a drink if you fancy one, or even have a nap. You're on vacation.
• If you'd like to save a bit of cash, haggle with a tuk tuk driver to do a round trip for the afternoon. Drivers are happy to wait outside of Tuol Sleng to take you to the Russian Market and then back into the part of town you're staying in.
• Cambodian Living Arts: This regularly scheduled performance at the National Museum is a five minute walk away from Rachana and is a perfect way to counterbalance the ghastly history of Tuol Sleng. The Living Arts put on a fantastic, upbeat, and truly unique performance that's well worth the $15 price of admission.
• Save a few bucks and stick to the $15 "C" section seats. It's an intimate theater with the A and B sections all of five feet away. Or splurge and pick up the premium seats and look at the extra money as a donation to the theater company if you like. There's also a donation box on stage after the show, so there are many ways to give.
• Street Food Dinner: After scoping out the best options on the first night, dive into the street food scene in Phnom Penh and get some cheap eats.
• Rooftop Drinks: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. End your evening back at Rachana again with cocktails or a cheap Cambodia beer.

Day 3: Killing Fields and Great Food

• Breakfast on the Move: Consider a quicker breakfast than usual to get to the Killing Fields at a reasonably early hour. Again, it's hot in Cambodia year round, so if you're going to be outside it's best to be out before noon. 
• Choeung Ek Genocidal Center: Allow roughly four hours total for this visit including the ride there and back. Much like Tuol Sleng, the audio tour here is a must and will paint a much more vivid picture than is bearable at times. Again, take some time to step aside and collect yourself before moving on. I would highly recommend listening to some of the additional tracks, especially the one about what happened to Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge after Vietnam liberated Cambodia in 1979. With the audio tour and additional tracks, expect to spend roughly two hours at the Killing Fields.
• Arrange a round trip tuk tuk through Rachana (or wherever your staying) for $15.
• Central Market: Luckily there's about a 45 minute ride back into town after the Killing Fields to allow an appetite to reappear, and Central Market is more than capable of feeding you. The food's located on an outdoor portion of the market to the right of the main entrance and has noodle stalls, fruit smoothies, donuts, and every other goodie your heart desires at cheap prices.
• If your appetite's not quite back yet, there's plenty to peruse in the market itself. The tourist shirts and trinkets will undoubtedly feel familiar by this point, but there may be some hidden gems to look for while your appetite returns. 
• Afternoon Rest: Cambodia takes a bit of a rest during the hottest part of the day, so why not join em? If you're staying somewhere with a pool, have a dip. If not, enjoy an afternoon cocktail or simply lounge around and read a book.
• If you're feeling a bit more active take a cooking class or tour Kingdom Brewery.
• Friends N Stuff: Friends restaurant is only a 5 minute walk from Rachana, so there's plenty of time to stop by Friends N Stuff to look over the handmade crafts there before heading to dinner. Much like Romdeng, Friends restaurant offers imaginative fine dining at a fraction of the usual cost. 
• FCC Bar: After dinner make the 3 minute walk to the river and enjoy an evening in a French colonial building turned bar. We had an early morning bus and couldn't make the trip, so please leave a comment with your thoughts!
• Alternatively, you could tuk tuk down to Jazz Club Phnom Penh to take in some live music before skipping out of town.

GET AROUND

TIPS/RECOMMENDATIONS

On the less fortunate side of things, Phnom Penh is quite dirty in some areas. Wash your hands thoroughly and often, and consider carrying around hand sanitizer. On the note of sanitation, by all means dig into the bountiful street food, but do a pass by and scope the place out before sitting down to see how and where they're preparing the food and how clean the restaurant is. 

While there's a need to be more on guard than in places like South Korea or Taiwan, we never felt unsafe during our time in Phnom Penh. Quite literally every person we talked to who had a bad experience or felt unsafe in the city had a story that involved them staying out to ridiculous hours of the early morning and having too much to drink. This is one of the many reasons we booked with Rachana: to have a rooftop bar where we could enjoy a late evening and simply walk downstairs to our room. However, should you crave more of a night out, take a tuk tuk back to your hotel instead of walking around the city late at night.